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Food

More pork on your fork

One of my favourite scenes in the TV show, The Simpsons, is when Lisa is telling her dad Homer that she is no longer going to eat meat.

“What about bacon?” asks Homer.

“No,” replies Lisa.

“Ham?”

“No.”

“Pork chops?”

“Dad, those all come from the same animal.”

“Heh heh heh. Ooh, yeah, right, Lisa. A wonderful, magical animal.”

It might have been a great punchline on TV, but in reality Homer was pretty spot on. The varied cuts of pork and the vast ways to cook them has seen pork become very popular with Australians. But it hasn’t always been this way. Statistics show that 50 years ago it was beef and lamb that dominated the dinner plate; pork, and chicken for that matter, were barely a blip on the radar.

One of the key reasons why this has changed is also the same reason why we are drinking table wine instead of fortifieds, and that is immigration. Our once predominant English-inspired dinner of meat and three veg has thankfully been complemented by a succulent array of delicious dishes. Think spaghetti Bolognese, pasta carbonara, chorizo paella, char siu – all of which, incidentally, feature pork; and that is not even thinking about breakfast (bacon and eggs) or, for that matter, lunch; ham and salad sandwich, anyone?

Kitchen tradition

Peter Haydon, marketing manager for Australian Pork, says tradition has played a huge role in shaping our food preferences and hindered his job in promoting pork.

“People grow up to cook the meals their parents cooked,” he says “That was steak and veg, lamb chops, roast beef.”

Decades ago Australian Pork had great success with the ‘get some pork on your fork’ campaign – many of you reading this will still have that phrase indelibly inked on your memory, and while that brought attention to the ‘other white meat’, it only did some of the job.

“The next challenge was teaching them how to cook it,” says Peter. For the past decade, Australian Pork have marketed PorkStars – a collection of well-known chefs such as Manu Feildel, Giovanni Pilu, Alessandro Pavoni, Dan Hong, Chui Lee Luk – all of whom have shown Australians how to cook pork via events and recipes.

Manu explains that pork played a huge role in his upbringing in France, learning different cuts and the many ways to prepare them. It is this knowledge that he hopes to pass on through his recipes.

 “Food has always played a big part in our lives, my dad was a chef, so was his dad,” says Manu. “One of my uncles is a ‘charcutier’, so he’s an expert with pork and making pork products, such as salamis, pâtès, rillettes, and his own specialities, so pork has always been part of my diet.

“I believe that pork is more versatile than any other animal,” states Manu. “You can eat everything from ‘nose to tail’. Roasts, stews, pan fried, deep fried, confit. Charcuterie, and things you not think about, like intestine for sausage skin, blood for black pudding, head for terrines, trotters, tail, ears, and more.

“Creating recipes with pork is endless and it is a great match with other ingredients. It pairs beautifully with fruits such as apple, prunes, apricots, so as a chef, you can let your imagination run wild.”

The science of eating

Manu is also brand ambassador for Murray Valley Pork, part of the Rivalea group and Australia’s largest pork producer. They sell their extensive range of pork products exclusively through butchers and see the affable chef as a great way to promote their brand and also to continue to educate Australians on how to cook pork.

“Manu’s reputation as an acclaimed chef has been instrumental in growing awareness of the brand,” says Sean Barrett, marketing manager with Murray Valley Pork. “We work together to communicate the same message: the best quality taste and experience when it comes to pork.”

To this end, over the past 15 years Murray Valley Pork have invested heavily in addressing many concerns of consumers, from animal welfare to issues such as dryness, colour and pork taint, to create a better quality product.

“There’s a cultural misconception that pork needs to be served well done, however more consumers are understanding this is not the case,” says Sean, who explains that they use a number of techniques including moisture infusion to ensure their pork doesn’t dry out from cooking.

“It is easy to cook, which means everyone can produce a great result This guarantee of a soft, tender and delicious meal every time significantly increases consumer confidence in cooking pork.”

Well-fed welfare

Dr Rebecca Morrison, animal welfare programs manager at Rivalea, details how the company has also set the benchmark in providing the best care of their stock.

“Rivalea commits to ‘care for every pig, every day’,” she says. “For instance, instead of pregnant sow stalls, our pregnant sows are now housed in social groups. This ensures that the sow is able to move freely within group housing and is able to perform natural social behaviours. More than half of our pigs are reared in straw-bedded housing systems.

“Other programs include loose farrowing systems, group weaning of sows and environmental enrichment for animals. This humane treatment ensures the end product is of the highest quality.”

It is these points that Manu believes will see pork continue to grow in the market and is the reason why he chose to work with the brand.

“Murray Valley Pork produces the highest quality of meat,” he says. “They do this ethically and responsibly. And I love the consistency, sweetness and tenderness across all of their cuts.”

Check out Manu's delicious pork recipes with our wine matching suggestions
Pork, peas and asparagus risotto

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Life
Poh Ling Yeow
Words by Jackie Macdonald on 8 May 2018
Last time we spoke to Poh Ling Yeow, she was on the verge of launching the second series of her television show, Poh & Co., and had just opened her café, Jamface. This time, we’re catching up with her to talk about her baking book, Poh Bakes 100 Greats.  TV presenter, cook, baker, author, artist, café owner – a better cover star for our diversity issue would have been tough to find!  Not many people know Poh as a baker, a point she makes in the introduction to her book. But, in actual fact, it was her first great cooking love. So, this book was a long time coming.  “I’m really excited about it because I feel like it’s a book I would have written first if I’d had my own way,” she explains. “But everyone knew me for my South-East Asian food, so I had to buy a bit of time and come out as a baker before I could effectively sell a book about baking!”  Poh ‘came out’ by opening Jamface, her café in Adelaide’s Central Market at the end of 2015. While Jamface offers other eats, the main attractions are Poh’s great passion – cakes and pastries made from scratch on site. 

I just don't think I"m out ot impress anyone anymore. I've shed all of that self-consciousness and I literaly cook food I would put on my table at home. 

- Poh Ling Yeow
  Childhood inspiration Poh’s love of baking started when she was a child, she explains. “I wasn’t allowed in the kitchen much as a kid, but baking was one thing I was allowed to do because my mum and great aunty Kim deemed it safe.” Poh’s mum, Christina, was also a great source of inspiration. “I grew up watching my mum bake madly all through my childhood,” she recalls.  For Christina, home economics was the highlight of her school days, and when they arrived in Australia, she took to baking with gusto.  One of the things Christina really instilled in her daughter is the power of persistence.  “If she doesn’t get something right,” Poh says, “she’ll just make it every day for five days in a row until she perfects it. I have definitely inherited that obsessiveness to get things right.” While many authentic Malaysian desserts are fried, steamed or frozen, baked treats are common too. One that Poh was particularly fond of growing up was pineapple tarts, the recipe for which features in her book.  “They’re a really popular little Malaysian snack with really short crust pastry and a super caramelised jam on top,” she describes.  Another of her childhood favourites in the book is coconut love letters. “They always remind me of Chinese New Year. They’re actually really easy to make, with a similar texture to tuille, but a lovely coconutty flavour,” Poh says.  The legend of these treats is that young Peranakan women, who weren’t allowed to meet their loves unattended, would write love letters, hide them inside folded biscuits, and throw them over the wall to their boyfriends. 
For more recipes and the full story with Poh, pickup a copy of Selector  from all good newsagents, subscribe or look inside your next Wine Selectors delivery.  OUT NOW: Poh bakes 100 Greats by Poh Ling Yeow, RRP $39.99. 
Food
Impress: Duncan Welgemoed
Words by Mark Hughes on 28 Jun 2018
On appearances, chef Duncan Welgemoed creates quite an impactful first impression. Broad shouldered, wild haired and inked up, he’s an imposing character. His profanity littered speech and blunt, heavy metal attitude amplify the offering. But one should never judge on first impressions. He’s a true gentleman, a loving husband and father of two, and an inspirational mentor in the kitchen. His tattoos are in fact replicas of famous artworks from the likes of Klimt, Cocteau and Giger. His ‘no holds barred’ style is the result of honesty, dedication and passion. Delicious flavoursome food, South Australia and a great restaurant top his agenda. A colourful journey Raised in the turbulent surrounds of Johannesburg and enduring a troubled childhood, Duncan escaped South Africa for London when he was 17. Mugged of his life savings at a Soho strip club, he fell into cooking as a way to survive. He’s never looked back. Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Fat Duck and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay all appear on his resume. He followed his heart to Adelaide, fell in love with the place and the girl, married and stayed. He helmed French restaurant Bistro Dom for a few years before opening Africola in 2014. Likened to a raucous dop & chop food party, Africola has become the destination for dining in Adelaide. “It started off fairly authentically African,” says Duncan of the restaurant’s evolution. “As we worked through the style of what we wanted to become, it has actually grown to be very Australian, not in terms of using indigenous ingredients or anything, it’s just that we believe that Australia is a beautiful multicultural country and that is what it (Africola) has grown into. “I suppose the biggest thing is, we’ve always wanted to achieve the informality of a South Australian restaurant and today, Africola does just that.” Parochial passions At its heart, Africola is South Australia. Wild, untamed, abundant, exciting. And in his heart, Duncan admits he wouldn’t be the chef he is today if he had set up shop in another part of the world.  “I think the big thing with how Adelaide has transformed who I am as a chef started with the whole country bagging South Australia and Adelaide,” says Duncan. “Moving here and seeing this beautiful place with fresh eyes, I couldn’t understand why people in Sydney and Melbourne would treat Adelaide as Australia’s drunken uncle. It pissed me off. “I know Adelaide had its day in gastronomy in the late 80s/early 90s. They said that’s when it was at its peak, and now it’s having a resurgence. But I believe the food and culture have always been there, it just went underground – that’s where winemakers and chefs started working with artists and musicians to challenge the orthodoxy.” Delicious food circus Through Africola, Duncan delivers that challenge with fervour. Dishes such as Goolwa pipis in fermented chilli and garlic, and padron peppers with almond aioli and katsuobushi, blended with a rock music feel and vibrant surroundings have put Africola on the world dining map. Young chefs from around the globe come to learn its essence, while diners travel from all corners to bask in Africola’s aura. “Being a destination restaurant is kind of weird,” admits Duncan. “We were a community restaurant. We want to be there for the locals who eat there two, three times a week. But because of the hype, or whatever, the word spread that this is a really interesting restaurant that is value for money and is super fun. “It’s like a community driven food circus, entertaining the masses. That’s what we’ve always wanted to become. It doesn’t follow a certain restaurant orthodoxy. I believe orthodoxy belongs in religion, not gastronomy. “So giving the platform for myself and our staff to express ourselves as we only know how, and that is; loud music, delicious food, great booze and great service, is a testament to the great talent I have behind me.”
Two Blues Sauvignon Blanc 2014
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