Life

Selector's Weekenders Guide to Grampians and the Pyrenees

Stunning natural settings and first-class wine are just part of the fabric of these two unassuming Victorian wine regions. 

Three hours north-west of Melbourne, few destinations match the Grampians (Gariwerd) for its mix of dramatic landscapes, ancient Aboriginal rock art, historic winemaking and buzzing tourism, creating something that feels both refined and deeply connected to place. Elevations of 1,161 meters above sea level give visitors breathtaking views rarely experienced in other Australian wine regions, and while you may come for the wine, you will stay for the tranquil natural beauty, the wildlife, hospitality and sense of space and freedom.

Halls Gap is a great base to access the many hikes, lookouts and waterfalls, including the spectacular MacKenzie Falls and the iconic Pinnacle walk and lookout. Located in the middle of the Grampians National Park, Halls Gap comes with endless encounters with inquisitive kangaroos, wallabies and emus. A sunrise walk or section of the ancient Grampians Peaks Trail starts the day, followed by a long lunch and tasting flight at award-winning wineries such as Best’s, Grampian’s Estate or Seppelt. Drop by farm gates to fill up the boot with local produce, or stop for a wine, beer or cider at Pomonal Estate. 

Finish the day by dining at one of the new farm-to-table restaurants, or smoked meat specialists, the Flame Brothers. For an up-market option, the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld offers award-winning fine dining and a wine cellar with more than 30,000 bottles, the largest private collection of Bordeaux and Burgundy in the Southern Hemisphere.

While there are only 12 cellar doors in the Grampians, there are many other boutique wineries. Explore them all at the ‘Grampians Cellar Door’ located in the heart of Halls Gap, where you can quaff all that the region has to offer and more. Alternatively, in the centre of the tiny wine village of Great Western, the Great Western Hotel has the largest Grampians regional wine list, all available by the glass and the bottle.

Seppelt Great Western features kilometres of underground cellars to explore, known as ‘The Drives’. 

GREAT BY NAME, GREAT BY NATURE

Great Western is the historic heart of the Grampians and the first sub-region to receive full, official Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2007. Beginning with sheep graziers in the 1840s, followed by the gold rush, the rapid development of its wine industry started with the first plantings in the 1863. In 1865, Joseph Best established vines in the area now known as Seppelt Great Western, and his brother, Henry Best, established Best’s Great Western. 

It’s home to the longest heritage-listed underground wine cellars in the Southern Hemisphere. Over three kilometres of hand-dug tunnels were carved by gold miners in the 1860s, known as The Drives, and sections of the tunnels are now transformed into Seppelt’s Underground dining events. It’s a rare destination where history, wine, food and immersive tourism come together.

Along the Western Highway lies the wonderful boutique winery of Grampians Estate. Owned and run for 30 years by Tom and Sarah Guthrie, it’s proven itself to be a contender, collecting 83 awards for its wines and counting. Many are available to try, including top of the range examples. “You can taste the 2021 St Ethels 1878 vines Shiraz, a wine where only 30 dozen is produced, and only in the years it produces enough grapes for one barrel,” Tom Guthrie says.

When you are ready to rest your head, there are multiple accommodation options on all sides of the Grampians where you can be surrounded by forest under some of the clearest night skies in Victoria. Find a place in one of the boutique accommodation offerings such as Health House luxury accommodation in the heart of Halls Gap, or Mount William Station, a beautifully restored historic homestead offering a luxury country stay. Glamping and camping grounds are also abundant. However you plan your itinerary, a trip to the Grampians will be unlike anything you have ever experienced.

The Bunjil's Shelter rock art, in the Black Range Scenic Reserve just outside Stawell.

SCALING THE HEIGHTS IN THE VICTORIAN PYRENEES

Along the road towards the towering Grampians, the Pyrenees Wine Region lies two hours northwest from the hustle of Melbourne. Wine lovers regularly flock to Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley, yet few it seems have discovered the unspoiled gem that sits in the high plains along the historic gold rush routes between Ballarat and Bendigo. Between 1850 to 1890 the gold rush boosted Victoria’s wine industry, and by the end of the 19th century, Victoria had more land under vines than either South Australia or New South Wales. 

There were once many vineyards across central and western Victoria that have since disappeared. Through the work of pioneering families in the 1960s and 1970s, a quiet renaissance unfurled. Although the region still remains largely unknown, some 60 years on, the Pyrenees is now an incredible travel destination. Exploring these parts of western Victoria, its wineries and small historic towns such as Avoca, Moonambel and Beaufort comes as a genuine surprise to visitors. 

A weekend expedition allows space to breathe, connect to nature and create a deeper understanding of local producers. Avoca, the largest town in the region, plays host to picturesque weekend riverside markets, the Avoca Cup in spring, and the Pyrenees Unearthed Festival every April.

The undulating beauty of the Glenlofty vineyards in the Pyrenees wine region.

EVOCATIVE VISTAS

Entering the gates of Mount Avoca winery, the scenery is transformed by rows of vines against a backdrop of rolling mountain ranges. Mount Avoca is the only certified organic and certified vegan winery in the region – of approximately 150 certified organic wineries across all of Australia – and highly regarded for its exceptional quality of red and white wines, including their cool-climate Shiraz.

A short drive from Mount Avoca is Blue Pyrenees Estate. The original site was created to make brandy under the ‘Château Rémy’ banner, by the French company Rémy Martin. When World War Two broke out, the Australian-grown grapes suddenly became an integral supplier for brandy. Re-named Blue Pyrenees Estate, its cellar door with outside dining under a canopy of grapevines is a great spot for lunch.

Along the Sunraysia Highway is the turnoff for picturesque Moonambel, a charming village, surrounded by the rolling green hills of the Pyrenees State Forest and St Arnaud National Park, offering some of the best views in the region and idyllic boutique vineyards. In the far reaches of a quiet cul de sac sit two iconic Pyrenees wineries – Taltarni, and Dalwhinnie.

Taltarni is the oldest vineyard in Moonambel. Set up in the early 1960s, it began to earn its reputation for sparkling wine in the 1980s under the stewardship of Dominique Portet. Today’s winemakers Robert Haywood and Ben Howell create top-notch sparkling wine at an incredibly good price point. During warmer weather, visitors to the cellar door can lounge in bean bags around the cellar door gardens and enjoy ambient live music every Sunday afternoon.

At 595 meters above sea level, Dalwhinnie is the highest and most remote of the Pyrenees wineries. The cellar door showcases sweeping views across the vines, and at the top of the ridge, the view stretches all the way to the Grampians. Former owner/winemaker David Jones established Dalwhinnie’s presence as a premium brand in the 1990s. Its iconic wine, The Eagle Shiraz, only made during exception vintages, is a Langton’s Classified wine. “2026 will be a big year – the release of the 2022 Eagle Shiraz – the best we have ever produced of The Eagle,” winemaker Julian Langworthy says. One to make the drive for, we would suggest.

Other noteworthy stops include Bigibila for the best sunset views, Summerfield winery for their woodfired pizzas, Sally’s Paddock for lovers of red wine, and St Ignatius wines for a sensational Malbec, including rare examples of Australian Malbec Rosé and Malbec Blanc. A trip to the tiny town of Beaufort will pay dividends for foodies at Magnolia’s Restaurant, while nature enthusiasts will love walking or riding through the many State and National Parks across the region, where quiet and picturesque camping grounds can also be found. 

Next time you’re thinking of a short wine-vacation, toss a coin between these two quietly magnificent regions: neither will disappoint.

Dalwhinnie’s Eagle Shiraz is a star among the Pyrenees region’s other standouts.

MUST-VISIT WINERIES IN GRAMPIANS AND THE PYRENEES

Though living somewhat in the shadow of Victoria’s more instantly recognisable wine regions, the Grampians and the Pyrenees can in fact lay claim to playing significant roles in Australian wine’s past, present, and future. These
elevated, cool climate areas produce a range of great varietals and styles, with established and emerging
vineyards peppered throughout their valleys and peaks. While relatively close to one another, you’ll want a weekend assigned to explore each region, as each has its own raft of cellar doors and nearby villages best explored at leisure. Both also provide ready access to the kind of breathtaking national parks this country is so famous for. Don't skip a visit to these critical darlings of Victorian wine!

Sunrise over the vine rows of Clayfield Wines in the Grampians wine region.

Mist-cloaked vines at Clayfield Wines, in classic cool climate conditions.

Clayfield Wines 

Clayfield Wines is a small boutique vineyard that specialises in the limited production of award-winning Grampians Shiraz. Established in 1999 by Simon Clayfield, the winemaking is done simply and uses traditional principles, including a trusty old hand operated basket press. Its flagship wine is the Clayfield Grampians Shiraz Black Label – a fine example inspired by a site perfectly matched to the variety. Visitors to the Cellar Door are greeted by the winemakers Simon and Kaye Clayfield who will introduce you to some of the finest Shiraz you will ever find, while educating you about their winemaking process and the local area. 

LOCAL RECOMMENDATIONS 

Visit historic Great Western or Ararat, or for those that like a vigorous walk try the Grampians Peaks Trail. 

WINE + FOOD MATCH 

Clayfield's Grampians Shiraz makes a perfect match with a Scotch fillet steak or delicious duck and roasted vegetables. 

Visit Clayfield Wines

Another award-winner by the team at Grampians Estate, first established in 1989.

Sarah and Tom Guthrie of Grampians Estate with daughter Pollyanna.

Grampians Estate 

Established in 1989 on their Mafeking sheep farm, Grampians Estate is owned and operated by Sarah and Tom Guthrie with the help of their daughter, Pollyanna. Since their first vintage in 1995, the winery has flourished as one of the Grampians region’s premier boutique wineries. Located right on the Western Highway, the Cellar Door offers friendly and professional wine tasting experiences and delicious food in the new winery café and outside deck. Taste the winery’s flagship wines including Sparkling Shiraz, the Streeton and 1878 Vines Shiraz and Riesling, as well as newer varietals of Grenache and Tempranillo. Open from 10am daily. 

LOCAL RECOMMENDATIONS 

Seppelt (Great Western) underground tours – three kilometres of underground drives to explore! 

WINE + FOOD MATCH 

The 2021 Rutherford Sparkling Shiraz with chocolate mousse and fresh raspberries – a match made in heaven. 

Visit Grampians Estate

Matthew Barry, winemaker and owner of Mount Avoca, is a long-time champion of organic wine.

The Mount Avoca vineyard in the foothills of the Pyrenees wine region's Mount Avoca.

MOUNT AVOCA

Australia’s most highly awarded organic winery offers a beautiful, relaxed Cellar Door experience in gorgeous surrounds. With over 50 years of experience with the unique Pyrenees terroir, and organic certified for over a decade, Mount Avoca keeps finding new ways to improve not just how they make wines, but how they interact with the land. Comprising 400 acres in total, 60 acres is dedicated to vineyard, another 60 acres is used for regenerative and sustainable practices – tree renewal and winery green waste up-cycling and compost creation - while 100 acres is a Conservation Zone that is open to guests for bush-walking and mountain biking.

EXPERIENCES ON OFFER

Cellar Door visitors can enjoy a glass of wine in the garden at relaxed seating in the shade of old gum trees. Bring a picnic basket or utilise the free BBQ facilities, rotunda and pétanque piste while the children can enjoy their own play area. Food platters and hampers are also available to pre-order, and bikes can be rented during your visit. Guests can also stay in four-star luxury with breathtaking views in elegant Eco-Luxe lodges for a peaceful getaway surrounded by olive trees in the Mount Avoca foothills.

LOCAL RECOMMENDATION

Daly’s Cottage evokes the long gone “wild.west” feel of the gold rush days of early Victoria.

WINE + FOOD MATCH

Fresh grilled prawns, lemon and cracked pepper with a glass of Estate Sauvignon Blanc.

Visit Mount Avoca