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Selector's Weekender's Guide to Coonawarra

Cabernet may be king in this small slice of winemaking paradise, but it’s just a small part of the pleasures Coonawarra has to offer travellers.

Situated on the Limestone Coast of South Australia about 350 kilometres from Adelaide, the small but world-renowned wine region of Coonawarra needs no introduction to wine lovers. Remarkably flat, with its iconic vine rows stretching towards the vast open skies above, it’s a place of scattered gums, historic buildings and rural charm, its importance in the story of Australian wine beyond dispute.

The birth of Coonawarra as we know it began with pastoralist and politician John Riddoch, a Scottish emigrant who first landed in Victoria in search of gold in 1851. His success in that endeavour enabled him to secure land, which he did in 1861 with the purchase of then-sheep-stud Yallum Park estate in the Penola district.

By 1890 he’d sub-divided his land for vignerons and orchardists to launch the Coonawarra Fruit Colony. The fertile terra rossa soils of his estate, red loam over porous limestone foundations, proved exceptionally well-suited to the production of wine grapes. Aided by the maritime breezes from the nearby Southern Ocean, grapes – and in particular, the region’s signature Cabernet Sauvignon – ripen slowly to produce wines of elegance, longevity, and a true sense of regional terroir.

It’s a place of history, to be sure. Yet among the esteemed names of yore – Riddoch, Wynns Coonawarra, Katnook, all deserving of their iconic status – the region is also home to a newer generation of passionate viticulturists and vignerons inspired by the possibilities of its red soils, as well as premium producers of beef, lamb, stonefruit and artisanal goods: a tight-knit, welcoming community with deep roots, ready to welcome you into their home and show you around the place.

Cyclists riding past the famous Coonawarra Station sign

Penola Coonawarra eBike Hire is a go-to for visitors looking to hit the cycle trails.

WALK THE COONAWARRA WALK

Find yourself a place to stay at the various lodges and retreats in and around Coonawarra and nearby Penola. One great option is Punters Vineyard Retreat, an idyllic getaway spot in the heart of Coonawarra. After a day exploring, there’s no better way to relax than under the shade of ancient gums with a glass of a newly-discovered Coonawarra favourite. Or, try the newly-opened luxury eco-cabins of Warriwindi Escapes, just outside Penola – wherever you choose to rest your head, you’re not far from the action.

Your explorations are made exceptionally easy with the flat terrain, and the ready availability of e-bike hire from places like Coonawarra Discovery, Rooster Hire and Penola Coonawarra Caravan Park (another popular place to set up camp). Hit the Coonawarra Rail Trail: extending 19 kilometres from Penola through the Coonawarra township, your ride will take you past some of the region’s most renowned wineries and cellar doors – Wynns, DiGiorgio Family Wines, Zema Estate, Brands Laira and Redman Wines – as well as sculptures celebrating the history of the region.

For those who prefer not to ‘drink and drive’, the Coonawarra Wineries Walking Trail overlaps the circuit, with a five-kilometre stretch that is readily tackled in about three hours. Other notable names off the trail are must-visits, however, and no Coonawarra trip would be complete without stopping by for a glass or three.

Hollick Wines’ heritage-meets-modern cellar door offers tastings of classic varietals alongside alternatives like Tempranillo and Savagnin. The historic Katnook Estate – the oldest winery in Coonawarra, housed in the Woolshed built by John Riddoch himself and used to make the region’s first vintage – produces several ranges, best tried alongside a cheese platter.

Leconfield, Patrick of Coonawarra, Koonara Wines… the concentration of iconic producers is staggering to first-time visitors, so it really does pay to pace yourself. Make sure to stop by Majella Wines, too – its newly-released Majella Pot Still Brandy, the first Coonawarra brandy made in over 70 years, is worth the trip alone.

A young artist painting a mural at the Penola Coonawarra Arts Festival, a major annual draw card for cultural explorers.

GREAT PLACES TO EAT AND THINGS TO DO IN COONAWARRA

For lunch, options abound. Why not try the award-winning Ottelia Restaurant? Located in a historic school building, it’s a genuine family affair, with chef Paul Stone (or Dietary Sommelier, if you like) crafting a local, seasonal menu sure to satisfy. After closing for renovations in 2021, Ottelia has reopened with extended dining and a dedicated tasting room to sample the winemaking of Ottelia’s John Innes. Try the 3x3 Tasting Experience, with three Ottelia wines paired with chef-prepared gourmet bites.

Another popular spot to grab a bite is the home-style café environs of The Post and Rail. It’s not simply a café – it’s also an art school and garden nursery housed in Penola’s beloved Cobb & Co building. Owner Cindy Bunt has carved out a special place here you simply must experience for yourself.

The region’s community feel extends year-round with a very active calendar of events and festivals. There’s the Coonawarra Vignerons Cup in January, a track-day event with live entertainment, fashion and, of course, gourmet food and wine. The Penola Coonawarra Arts Festival in May is also worth marking in your diary, packed with exhibitions, workshops and performances.

There’s more than food and wine to discover: to the north, Naracoorte Caves National Park is worth exploring, as is Glenroy Conservation Park. History buffs will love the self-guided walk through the Penola township with its stone cottages, churches, galleries and gardens. Then there’s the Mary MacKillop Penola Centre, dedicated to the life of Australia’s only canonised saint.

What more could you ask for in a travel destination than great food and wine, a little bit of history and a whole lot of heart? Coonawarra has it all in spades – don’t sleep on the opportunity to experience it for yourself.

A glass of sparkling wine being poured by someone wearing an Ottelia apron

Ottelia in Coonawarra is more than worth a visit for those looking to slake their thirst and sate their hunger.

SPECIAL OFFERS AND MUST-VISIT COONAWARRA WINERIES AND EXPERIENCES

Home to some of the most expensive soils on earth, Coonawarra – situated on South Australia’s celebrated Limestone Coast – may be among the smallest of Australia’s wine regions, but its impact is enormous, to say the least. Over 20 cellar doors, scattered along one stretch of road and all in easy reach of one another, await the wandering wine lover; its f lat landscape makes it easy to get around and enjoy the scenery, and there is a wealth of cafes serving up the region’s cheeses, meats and seasonal fare. The historic town of Penola is also nearby, with heritage cottages, art galleries and more to while away the time exploring, making Coonawarra a bucket list destination for all discerning travellers.

ZEMA ESTATE

Zema Estate is a proudly family-owned winery with deep Italian roots, dedicated to crafting exceptional Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Since 1982, the Zema family has built a reputation for producing wines of outstanding quality and remarkable consistency, regardless of seasonal variations. Guests can enjoy a guided tasting of current releases, sample gourmet platters, or book a Private Tasting Experience to explore rare museum wines drawn from the family’s cellar. The Cellar Door is open seven days a week, including public holidays. A must-stop destination in Coonawarra.

Zema Estate aginst a stunning blue Coonawarra sky.

People enjoying a glass of wine at the Tasting Bar of Zema Estate Cellar Door

Hospitality is the order of the day at Zema Estate.

LOCAL RECOMMENDATIONS

Mayura Station’s Tasting Room is a must. It’s the ultimate paddock-to-plate full-blood wagyu beef experience, and mouth-wateringly good.

WINE + FOOD MATCH

The Zema Estate Family Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, paired with rib eye steak – buon appetito!

Visit Zema Estate

HOLLICK

First established by Ian and Wendy Hollick in 1982, Hollick Estates is a privately owned, boutique winery located on the famed terra rossa soils of Coonawarra. Driven by quality and a hands-on approach, all Hollick wines are crafted from premium estate-grown fruit. From Friday to Sunday, visitors can head upstairs and enjoy traditional Italian cuisine at the restaurant – the first winery restaurant to open in the region! Using age-old recipes, the cook crafts fresh, homemade pasta from scratch, a perfect pairing for Hollick Wines. The Cellar Door is open for tastings 7 days a week, often with limited edition back vintage tastings and offers available.

The Hollick cellar door is an inviting building marrying rustic and modern.

A bottle of Hollick red being poured into a carafe in the Hollick barrel room.

LOCAL RECOMMENDATIONS

The Naracoorte Caves are a great place to explore.

WINE + FOOD MATCH

Enjoy Hollick’s flagship Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon with beef ragu tagliatelle or a dark chocolate dessert.

Visit Hollick

KATNOOK ESTATE

Rich in heritage, Katnook lies in the heart of the fabled Coonawarra wine region, home to some of Australia’s best terra rossa vineyards. Its history stretches back to 1867, after Scottish immigrant John Riddoch arrived at Penola and, impressed with the remarkable rate of growth of fruit trees and vines in the area, purchased parcels of land throughout Coonawarra and commissioned the building of his ‘Woolshed’ which still stands today at Katnook. One of the oldest existing wineries in the region, Katnook produces premium, iconic wines including the Langton’s Classified Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon, Prodigy Shiraz, the flagship Katnook Estate range, and a more contemporary offering in the Founders Block range. A warm welcome awaits at Katnook Estate’s historic Cellar Door.

The entrance to the historic cellar door of Katnook, one of Coonawarra's oldest wineries.

The entrance to the historic cellar door of Katnook Estate, one of Coonawarra's oldest wineries.

The entrance way and gates to Katnook Estate beneath majestic gum trees.

The gates to Katnook Estate – a lovely welcome to one of the region's most storied producers.

LOCAL RECOMMENDATIONS

Pipers at Penola offers an a la carte menu with an emphasis on regional produce.

WINE + FOOD MATCH

Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2023 paired with local South Australian crayfish.

Visit Katnook Estate

DIGIORGIO

Family owned and operated, DiGiorgio winery and vineyard is in the heart of terra rossa country just south of the Coonawarra township. Visitors can curate their own tasting paddle of six wines to enjoy in the cosy surrounds of the Cellar Door, in the heated outdoor room or out on the beautiful lawn with views of the vineyard. You can also build your own platter from a selection of local, South Australian and imported produce. There is a range of experiences on offer including a wine f light matched to bites, a tour and private tasting with Italian meatballs
and a pasta making class followed by lunch with the family. A perfect spot to relax, kids and dogs welcome.

A view of DiGiorgio, a family owned and operated winery in the heart of terra rossa country.

A tasting session at DiGiorgio, with wines being poured at a table on the grounds of the estate.

A tasting experience at DiGiorgio is a real treat with a platter of local produce to pair with your wines.

LOCAL RECOMMENDATIONS

The Coonawarra Wineries Walking Trail takes you through the vineyards, enjoying stops at six wineries.

WINE + FOOD MATCH

DiGiorgio’s Coonawarra Chardonnay paired with local fresh southern rock lobster and homemade aioli.

Visit DiGiorgio

PUNTER'S VINEYARD RETREAT

Punters Vineyard Retreat is an idyllic getaway offering serenity in a spacious environment. With room to accommodate four couples, this architect-designed, award-winning building highlights the picturesque location, providing sweeping views of the breathtaking, vineyard-studded landscape. Each of the four bedrooms offers private entrances, sun-drenched timber floors, wall-to-wall glass and panoramic views over the vines. Punters Vineyard Retreat is an adults only getaway,
children under the age of 15 are not permitted.