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Selector's Weekender's Guide to the Southern Highlands

Serene landscapes, stunning waterfall vistas and sublime winemaking - the Southern Highlands has them all in spades. Here's where to eat, drink, stay and play in this elevated cool climate wine region.

It's easy to overlook, in the day-to-day grind, how short the road is to paradise in Australia. Our country is replete with idyllic getaway destinations just outside our major cities, particularly for those with an enduring passion for good food and great wine - we are, quite literally, spoilt for choice when it comes to holiday spots to step outside the hustle and bustle.

One such destination, practically on the doorstep of both Sydney and Canberra, is the Southern Highlands of New South Wales. Traditionally the land of the Gundungurra and Tharawal peoples, this elevated plateau was settled by Europeans in search of new grazing lands in the early 19th century, drawn by its forested hills, fertile soils, dramatic sandstone escarpments and rich water sources like the perennial Wingecarribee River.

By the 1820s, sheep and cattle farms had emerged around Bowral, Berrima and Mittagong, with the Great Southern Railway in the 1860s further stimulating the civic and economic growth of the area and its small yet thriving townships. Early attempts at winemaking however were short-lived - despite a typically long, mild growing season, lack of cool climate viticultural expertise saw harsh winters and early frosts drive grape-growing into extended dormancy until the 1980s.

Say hello to the locals at Swallows Nest

Thanks to pioneering cool climate viticulturists like Joadja Estate and Artemis Wines revisiting the region's possibilities at the tail end of the 20th century, winemakers in the Southern Highlands have largely adapted to the often fickle conditions at play, and have zeroed in on what varietals work best in its elevated soils: chiefly, cool climate staples like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.

With elevations of up to 900 metres and a range of soil types, from basalt-derived volcanic soils and sandy clay loams, the region is now playing to its strengths, with winemakers extending their offerings through the use of grapes from nearby regions like Hilltops and Orange both for added variety as well as for overall consistency in more challenging years.

It's no wonder, then, that the Southern Highlands has become a wine lover's ultimate weekend getaway. Its relatively modest number of cellar doors in close proximity to a host of natural attractions and the distinct charms of its surrounding townships makes a sojourn here a boutique experience of incomparable charm.

BOWRAL'S BOUNTY

Of the Southern Highland's towns, Bowral is the largest and most central, with a high street to satisfy most any shopping urge. Accommodation can be tricky to secure in the high winter season, but first on anyone's list should be Berida Hotel. Originally a private residence built in 1925, it combines old world elegance with contemporary style, and is located just at the end of Bowral's main street. Don't miss dining at Bistro Sociale, Berida Hotel's French-inspired in-house bistro. Head chef Nathan Jackson has crafted a substantial menu: highlights include the Gundagai lamb with white bean fricassee, Merguez sausage and salsa verde, and the pan-roasted John Dory with mustard tarragon sauce and stuffed zucchini blossom.

A short walk into town and a wealth of bakeries and cafes await. Harry's on Green Lane is always popular, and makes a mean sourdough to takeaway. It's located just next to Dirty Jane's Antique Emporium, a curio-lover's delight surrounded by speciality stores: an easy way to spend a morning (and an even easier way to spend money).

Dirty Janes is a mecca for curio hunters

The nearby Mill Precinct is also worth a visit, home to Millsheds Bar and Distillery, specialising in small batch gins crafted by owner Nathan Ponder, and Bowral Cellar Door, where Sean Jones not only showcases local wines but also curates private tours to surrounding vineyards with his Tasting Tours Co.

Nearby, Centennial Vineyards represents one of the major producers in the region. First planted in 1996, with its Tuscany-inspired cellar door and winery operations commencing operations in time for its first vintages in 2001. New Zealand-born winemaker Tony Cosgriff has presided over vintages since its opening, and has crafted an impressive portfolio of 40 wines, from a suite of delightfully dry sparklings to Grüner Veltliner, Traminer and more.

Centennial Vineyards is one of the region's major producers

The site is also home to the annual Day on the Green festival and regular concerts, which see thousands gather for headliner acts like Fat Boy Slim, Roxette, and more. The event is but one high point on Bowral's cultural calendar: make sure to visit in September and October to catch the town's Tulip Time Festival (12 September-6 October), and the Horizontal Festival (4-5 October) celebrating local food and wine.

Not far from Centennial Vineyards is Artemis Wines. Founded by brothers Anton and Mark Balog, it was among the earliest wineries in the region, pioneering the planting of Pinot Noir and proving the region's cool climate credentials. They were also among the first to open a dedicated cellar door in the area, to capture the-then nascent tourist dollar.

With the help of Mark's high-school friend Tom Evans, the brothers have made the rustic surrounds of Artemis - the closest winery to Sydney CBD, by Mark's estimation - a true drawcard not only for its quality wines (the Pinot is unsurprisingly excellent, but don't sleep on its Sauvignon Blanc or The Bellows Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot blend), but also for its weekend pizza cook-ups, which draw people in their hundreds each weekend. Don't skip nearby Sondara Estate either: set on 100 acres, the estate produces delightful regional styles of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé.

BOUND FOR BERRIMA

A brief 10-minute drive from Bowral is the bucolic little village of Berrima. Take the Old Hume Highway there from Bowral and make sure to stop by Bendooley Estate. Originally purchased by Leo Berkelouw on a whim in the mid-1970s, it would become home to The Book Barn - originally built as a place to secure and store old and rare volumes - and the heart of the Berkelouw Books empire. With the help of Leo's son Paul, the estate has evolved into a thriving cellar door and vineyard, wedding venue, and restaurant.

Table set with plates, cutlery and wine glasses

Bendooley Estate is a local icon for its unique offerings

Order lunch and peruse the shelves of The Book Barn while you wait, or take a seat in the restaurant and enjoy not just the warmth from its specially commissioned fireplace, but also artworks by a range of contemporary and classic artists - most famously, Berrima local John Olsen, who also helped design the unique labels of Bendooley Estate's wines. Award-winning winemaker Jonathan Holgate has crafted a beautiful range of easy-drinking wines that are true palate-pleasers: the Nebbiolo in particular is an excellent match for the diner's woodfired pizzas.

In Berrima itself, it's hard to go hungry. Besides the sweets of Lolly Swagman and Gumnut Patisserie and the handcrafted teas and preserves of Mrs Oldbucks Pantry and Table, there's the much-loved Baked in Berrima, an Italian-inspired artisan bakery that is an absolute must-visit for its savoury sensations (do not go past its rustic bone-in lamb pie - perhaps the best lamb pie you'll ever eat).

Berrima is also home to PepperGreen Estate. This unique cellar door celebrates the region's varietal signatures of Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay, but also offers other delectable expression and styles like its Berrima Blush Rosé and a delicious Gamay Noir. Of particular note is the Estate's ownership of 60,000 olive trees, from which it produces its own range of award-winning Australian extra virgin olive oil.

Housed in a former antique house of world renown, today the PepperGreen Tasting Room, just off Berrima's main street near the bridge crossing, hosts an elegant contemporary French restaurant, where head chef Mark Chance serves up a mouth-watering array of dishes (the confit duck is truly spectacular with a PepperGreen Pinot). Nearby Eschalot also deserves praise. Housed in a significant heritage building, its fire-kissed, paddock to plate, modern Australian menu by chef Matty Roberts is a real drawcard.

ENTICING EXETER, BEAUTIFUL BUNDANOON

Another village in the dress circle of the Southern Highlands is Bundanoon, a quaint hamlet with a distinct Scottish vibe. Entering from the north via Remembrance Drive, make sure to stop past Cherry Tree Hill Wines - after a challenging couple of vintages, its celebrated Riesling is once more available - and St Maur Farm Wines, which has been making single estate, small batch Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay since 1998.

En route to Bundanoon is Exeter, home to a large number of English-style estates and the Exeter General Store. Here you'll find Dawning Day Winery and Distillery, where Mike and Katrina Archer have followed their dreams. While Mike makes the wine and spirits (a compelling range that definitely rewards investigation), Katrina's farmhouse Gin Pickles and Bonfire Hot Sauce are equally worth the trip - better still, book a stay in their newly built boutique accommodation.

In Bundanoon proper, places to eat abound: Bottega B Ristorante, Primula Café, Milk and Daisy Co or The Bundanoon Hotel are popular draws. Try to time your visit for the first or third Sunday of the month when the Bundanoon Makers Market is held. Here, alongside handmade scarves, art, and books, you'll find a great selection of local produce like charcuterie meats and locally made honey. It's a great way to spend a day.

NO REST FOR THE WICKED

If you've indulged (very easy to do in these hills) or have kids in tow, burn off a few calories in the best possible way. See who's fastest to complete the garden labyrinth at Harper's Mansion, overlooking Berrima, or take a day to enjoy Bundanoon's nearby natural attractions and national parks. There are multiple waterfalls in easy reach, including Fairy Bower Falls, and spectacular views at Grand Canyon Gorge. The Glow Worm Glen caves also offer an illuminating display over the spring and summer months.

Harper's Mansion in Berrima is home to a beautifully maintained garden maze

East of Bowral you'll find Carrington and Belmore Falls, as well as The Swallow's Nest, a wonderful family-run farm where you can meet the Highland cows with host Belle. Naturally, Bowral is also home to the Don Bradman Museum, celebrating Australia's most famous cricketer. All this is but to scratch the surface of what the Southern Highlands has to offer: in truth, you may never want to leave.

With thanks to Destination Southern Highlands and Tasting Tours Co.

SPECIAL OFFERS AND MUST-VISIT SOUTHERN HIGHLAND WINERIES AND EXPERIENCES

Situated along The Great Dividing Range roughly equidistant from Sydney and Canberra, the Southern Highlands has long been a retreat for celebrities, the well-to-do, politicians and the every-person alike.

Its rolling hills, winding valleys and misty woodlands enjoy four distinct seasons, and are interspersed with vineyards and pastoral farms, with the central town of Bowral and quaint, heritage villages like Exeter peppered throughout imparting a distinctly English or European feel.

It's also becoming increasingly recognised for its contributions to Australian wine, particularly for its cool climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Add to that its gourmet produce, abundance of stunning natural attractions to explore, and regular calendar of cultural and market events, and the region becomes a must-visit. Members, make sure check out where you can save on your Highlands trip!

Bendooley Estate

Visitors to the rustic Cellar Door are warmly greeted by an enthusiastic team offering a relaxing wine tasting experience with a selection of beautifully handcrafted wines and sweeping views. Open Saturdays and Sundays only, bookings advised.