Wine
Assessing the Best in Australian Merlot – A Selector State of Play Tasting
Merlot is the most widely-planted grape of Bordeaux and a key blending varietal, but its fortunes here as a single
expression have fluctuated. Is it time to reassess the humblest of the noble family?
Merlot is not one of Australia’s “cool kid" grape varieties. Lacking outright star power, it's never been cult worshipped like Pinot or Grenache. Instead, Merlot has an image problem, seen as old-school, simple, soft, slurpable and something your grandparents drank. But does it deserve a second look?
After all, it’s one of only six noble grape varieties, an honour reserved for grapes proven to produce consistently
high-quality wines worldwide. First documented in the late 18th century, Merlot is the second most-planted
grape variety globally. It has a long history in the famed region of Bordeaux, where Merlot vines cover more than
60 per cent of the landscape. It is Bordeaux’s Right Bank, home to some of the world’s most expensive wines,
where Merlot truly shines, with unparalleled elegance, depth, and complexity. In blends, it works to soften the
sterner, later-ripening Cabernets.
Such adaptability has seen Merlot planted in some 37 countries around the world, with significant plantings in
the US, Italy, South America and Australia. The grape has a relatively young history in Australia with plantings
starting in earnest from 1965 using the Californian sourced D3V14 clone. This clone was largely responsible
for producing high-yielding, fruity, inexpensive commercially produced wines. However, in the past 25 years, serious growers have experimented with French-and Italian-sourced clones that produce different yields
and flavour profiles.
Masked Merlot await the panel’s rigorous assessment.
WHERE DOES AUSTRALIAN MERLOT GROW BEST?
Merlot’s fortunes in Australia have seen it decline from fourth-largest grape crush by variety in 2015, to now the sixth – overtaken by Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio/Gris. For winemakers, there are two distinctive approaches for this variety. One results in wines with generous plummy fruits, soft and velvety with plush tannins that are approachable in their youth and easy for new red wine drinkers to enjoy.
But equally, Merlot –particularly from cooler climates like Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Orange – can seriously level-up. For wine enthusiasts who love an elegant, smooth, classic style of red with complexity, structure and ageability, Merlot can deliver. If you appreciate a little more grunt than Pinot, less spice than Shiraz and gentler tannins than Cabernet, Merlot could be the perfect fit.
The clay-rich terra rossa soil of the Coonawarra region is a natural home for Merlot, and Leconfield are long time
champions of the variety. With vines planted from 1982 and new clones added, they are invested both financially
and philosophically in producing world class Merlot.
Leconfield winemaker Paul Gordon explains, “Merlot is our second-biggest-selling wine, so it’s extremely
important to us. It’s a variety that truly shines if it’s treated with respect, integrity and passion. We aim to make high
quality wines of depth, intensity, structure and longevity. The pedigree of our Merlot means that even 20-year-old
wines in our cellar are still looking fantastic.”
Connor Brasier, winemaker of Mt Bera in Adelaide Hills comments, “our cooler climate helps us achieve a
vibrancy with the variety. We aim for a lovely blueberry, blackberry fruit plushness but we keep it tight and bright,
picking earlier so it holds its natural acidity with gentle tea-like tannin. We only make a premium straight varietal Merlot in the best vintage years.”
Gordon continues, “I think serious Merlot is definitely underrated in Australia. It’s medium-bodied, which is what people are looking for, it’s structured, but has an attractive roundness and it’s very versatile with food.”
From left to right: Mike De Iuliis of De Iuliis Wines; author Cathy Gadd; PJ Charteris of Charteris Wines and Wine Selector's Tasting Panel Co-Chair.
WHAT FOODS PAIR WELL WITH AUSTRALIAN MERLOT?
The majority of Merlot is the “mum-made jumper” of wine – not fashionable, but cosy and something you
regularly reach for. It’s the perfect mid-week red for evenings spent with your favourite people, matched perfectly with game night, book club, family dinners, nachos on the couch or movie-nights in.
Merlot is wonderfully food friendly, pairing with comfort classics like bangers and mash, shepherds pie, mushroom risotto and barbeque lamb chops, plus casual beef tacos, burgers or pepperoni pizza. As for a favourite match, Gordon believes it handles a bit of chilli better than most varieties. “I make a Delhi-style lamb and potato curry with moderate heat, lots of cardamom and Merlot just rises to the occasion,” he says.
Taking it to the next level, Brasier says, “we have a Merlot-braised beef cheeks with Paris mash on the Mt
Bera restaurant menu. It’s the ultimate winter dish.”
TASTING THE BEST AUSTRALIAN MERLOT
Our tasting panel was comprised of Selector publisher Paul Diamond, PJ Charteris of Charteris Wines (and
Co-Chair of the Wine Selectors Tasting Panel), Mike De Iuliis of De Iuliis Wines, and myself. Before the tasting,
we discussed expectations and whether Australian Merlot has a clear identity or signature style. We noted that whilst Merlot is planted in many regions, no region has truly claimed the variety. PJ commented, “the best Merlot should have beautiful aromatics, dark fruits with an elegant medium body that is smooth but has a textural backbone. You want a generous satisfying mouthfeel.”
The tasting yielded a diversity in quality and range of styles, from light and pretty forest-fruited wines, to
those that were darker and more opulent. The top bracket of wines included a mix of keenly priced examples,
some premium wines and, to the panel’s surprise, a good representation of aged Merlot. Adelaide Hills, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and Margaret River regions were all well represented. The tasting confirmed that there are some vibrant well-made approachable wines with an ease and roundness of fruit. According to PJ, “these are beautifully expressed using straightforward winemaking that doesn’t get in the way of the fruit.”
The panel unanimously agreed that the Credaro Five Tales Merlot fit the brief, as did the Leconfield and Falcon Ridge Merlot. Despite their age, the duo of 2018 Mt Bera Merlot from Adelaide Hills were some of the freshest on the bench with a youthful vibrance, structure and power, but also poise. They showed the potential of Merlot when
the variety is grown in the right place with intention and considered winemaking.
According to Braisier, “2018 was a ‘Goldilocks vintage’ – not too hot or cold, not too wet or dry. When we pour those wines next to the current vintage, people really get to appreciate the magic that happens over time.” For those seeking to explore premium examples the Mt Bera, Mount Eyre, Nightfall Lupus and Hickinbotham The Revivalist Merlot are all worth tracking down as sterling single varietal expressions.
It may not command the centre of attention, but Merlot remains quietly well loved as an everyday drinking wine. And, when made with a clear sense of purpose and conviction, the variety can yield cellar-worthy wines of
genuine quality and character.
AUSTRALIAN MERLOT TASTING HIGHLIGHTS
MT BERA WILD & FREE MERLOT 2018
RRP $35
Another Top 5 entry from the Adelaide Hills showing fantastically after 7 years of age. Paul appreciated its finer, lighter, elegant style: Mike was impressed with the freshness of the palate and the balance and concentration of the red and blue fruits across the palate. Great potential with this one.
PERTARINGA STAGE LEFT MERLOT 2024
RRP $32
One of the leaders of the youthful 2024 pack. Medium bodied with generous layers of rich, dark fruits; black cherries, Damson plum, coffee, mocha and a hint of oak round out a long finish. Lively with plums, black cherries, leafy herbs and wild blackberries. Beautifully concentrated and balanced.
HICKINBOTHAM THE REVIVALIST MERLOT 2016
RRP $90
The oldest wine at the tasting showing how well the variety can develop over time. Nice array of rounded and softened secondary plums, and earth-driven blackberries. Aromatics are a nice
mix of fresh and aged red flowers, smokey plums and blackberries, the elegant finish soft and silky.
MOUNT EYRE MERLOT 2023
RRP $68
Another Top 5 Merlot. On the full-bodied end of the spectrum, with a great depth of blackberries and cassis that flow through to a plush finish. The aromas are dark and earthy with blackcurrants, boysenberries, violets and dried herbs. Mike liked the fuller style and the freshness, while Paul was a fan of this wine’s texture. A must-try.
CHÂTEAU TANUNDA THE CHÂTEAU MERLOT 2024
RRP $40
Lifted aromas of baked plums, blackberry, leafy tobacco and spice on a glossy palate with hints of cedar and musk. Mike found it clean and bright and admired the palate structure and weight; PJ appreciated its soft, plush entry, boysenberry fruit depth and generosity, and its long, easy finish. Lovely.
For a full list of the wines of the tasting, don't miss the March-April 2026 edition of Selector, available at selected newsagents, or via PressReader. Or, suscribe today, and never miss an issue!