Wine
Assessing The Best In Australian Sangiovese - A Selector State Of Play
Could 2025 be the breakthrough year for Australian Sangiovese? With a significant rise in quality and strong endorsements from one of the country's most renowned wine critics, the signs are promising.
First introduced in the 1970s as one of Australia's pioneering alternative varieties, Sangiovese's journey to excellence has been anything but smooth. However, with unwavering dedication, a passionate group of winemakers have worked tirelessly - selecting superior clones, identifying ideal growing regions, and refining their craft - to unlock the true potential of this distinctive variety.
The history of Sangiovese goes back centuries in Italy, with theories of its origins dating back to the Roman times. Commonly known as Chianti, it was made famous in the stunning region of Tuscany, with its rolling hills and majestic castles. As Italy's most-planted and revered flagship grape variety, it thrives in that country's warm Mediterranean climate.
Sangiovese's adaptability to hot, dry conditions and ability to withstand drought aligns with Australia's increasing focus on climate-resilient grape varieties. With its thick skin and late ripening, Sangiovese is capable of producing vibrant wines, even in hotter years.
A significant shift in Australian wine preferences has also seen consumers gravitate toward versatile, lighter, more approachable red wines - lower in alcohol, with fresh bright flavours, that are food friendly. Sangiovese fits the brief perfectly.
ORIGINS OF SANGIOVESE IN AUSTRALIA
Whilst Sangiovese was initially planted by Penfolds in the early 1970s, it was Mark Lloyd of Coriole, who took cuttings from Penfolds Kalimna Block in the mid-1990s, that really championed the variety.
McLaren Vale-based Coriole achieved early critical acclaim and has maintained its focus and success with the variety.
However, if there is an authority on Sangiovese in Australia today, it would have to be the Pizzini family, who planted Sangiovese in the 1990s and released their first wine in 1997. Joel Pizzini, second generation winemaker, along with his father Alfredo, have taken their focus on the variety to the next level. Trialling six different clones which all yield different characteristics, they are also three years into the painstaking task of soil mapping their vineyards.
Says Joel, "it's been a game changer. It's added another layer of knowledge to our decision making and with a deeper understanding of the best parcels, we've fine-tuned our fruit selection. We also know how those parcels behave in different vintage conditions, so it means we can produce good wines every year." With an impressive line-up of seven Sangiovese-based wines, Pizzini showcases the variety in diverse expressions, including Rosé, as a straight varietal, single vineyard selections, and blends.
According to Joel, "stylistically, we aim to show the versatility of the variety and breadth of its capability, from easy drinking to serious, age-worthy wines. We want to express what's unique to our place and we've developed a distinctly Pizzini range to showcase that."
With his Italian heritage, Garry Crittenden, founder of Crittenden wines, became interested in Italian varietals in the 1990s - and, in a case of serendipity, worked with Joel Pizzini on Sangiovese. His son, Rollo, current General Manager and winemaker, is a big believer in the variety.
"Sangiovese just ticks all the boxes. With plenty of sunshine hours, the variety suits our climate, culture and palates. With medium body, bright morello cherry flavours, aromatics and a savoury palate supported by acid and tannin, it's a moreish wine made for food and good friends," he says.
"Too many winemaking inputs create conflicting characters, so we're committed to maintaining the variety's natural attractive attributes through to the finished product. Whilst it's Italian in origin, we do an Australian interpretation," Rollo explains.
MATCHING FOOD WITH SANGIOVESE
With our warm climate, alfresco lifestyle and love of casual eating, Sangiovese provides a crowd-friendly red. Celebrated for its food friendly nature, Sangiovese works equally well slightly chilled in summer, or with heartier fare in cooler weather.
After holidaying in Tuscany last year, Rollo reflects that "the Italians are masters of using a few key ingredients, like pasta with garden-grown tomatoes, regional vegetables and meats that perfectly balance with Sangiovese's flavours, acid and structure." Tomato-based dishes are notoriously tricky to pair with wine, but Sangiovese rises to the challenge beautifully.
Whether it's a Friday night prosciutto and mushroom pizza, antipasti with chargrilled vegetables, a rich veal ragu, a bowl of giant polpette, or a hearty moussaka, a glass of Sangiovese is the perfect match.
Drawing on his own Italian roots, Joel comments, "sharing wine and food is our religion and when Italians migrated to Australia, they embraced this. There is a version of Sangiovese to suit every occasion and any type of food. But frankly, you can't beat a glass of Pizzini Nonna Gisella Sangiovese in one hand and a great piece of wood-fired pizza in the other."
GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS - TASTING SANGIOVESE
Our panel tasting focus was on straight varietal Sangiovese across a diverse range of regions, from the cooler climates of Adelaide Hills, King Valley and Beechworth, to the warmer Clare Valley and McLaren Vale. With some 60 wines to blind taste (most less than four years old), the work was certainly cut out for the panel.
Discussing what to expect from the tasting, panel chair Paul Diamond commented, "there's been a shift happening in Chianti, from the old school, over-extracted, heavily oaked wines to a fresher, more approachable style. I'd expect that's what we might also see in the Australian wines."
The panel agreed that there were some outstanding wines in the line-up, with a significant lift in quality compared to five years prior. Notably, the majority of wines tasted achieved medal ratings from the panel, with excellent value to be found in the $20-40 range.
The top wines were regionally diverse, with quality wines found across cool climate regions or those with warm days and cooler nights. The best had an attractive vibrancy and tension. They were medium-bodied but still retained the classic Sangiovese characteristics of spiced cherry, amaro bitters, savoury herbs and spices, with bright acidity and a firm tannin backbone.
If you're looking for "bang for buck" then it's hard to go past the Clare Valley's 2024 Mr Mick Sangiovese. Lively, bright, and aromatic, this wine bursts with jubey strawberries, raspberries, and sour cherries, layered with savoury white pepper spice and an earthy mid-palate: a deliciously easy-drinking drop.
For a more intense expression, Claymore Blackbird Sangiovese appealed, with its more savoury style. Bursting with blueberries, rhubarb, cherry cola, and amaro bitters, this wine offers impressive weight, texture, and length that screams for a platter of antipasti. The 2023 Tar and Roses Sangiovese from Heathcote also received high praise, showcasing deep dark cherries, plum, cola, earthy herbs, and a hint of spice, all balanced by crunchy acidity and fine tannins.
The panel agreed that this variety is more appealing in its youth, with older wines tending to appear dry and faded before their time. However, there's always an exception to the rule. The panel was pleasantly surprised by a flavoursome 2012 Eldredge Sangiovese, and even more remarkably, a 23-year-old bottle from the same producer still retained its fruit and acidity.
The panel noted that wines picked earlier, with freshness and less oak, were all the better for it. Others, darker in fruit and more concentrated, with earthy notes and prominent oak and tannin, whilst less favoured by the panel, were nonetheless balanced and well made.
The panel summarised that after plenty of trial and error, Australian winemakers are making terrifically vibrant and distinctly Australian Sangiovese, perfect for today's consumers. Rollo Crittenden concluded: "Australian Sangiovese should have a firm place on wine lists around the country, and on the table of wine lovers."
AUSTRALIAN SANGIOVESE TASTING HIGHLIGHTS
MR MICK SANGIOVESE 2024
RRP $20
Without a doubt the best "bang for buck" Sangio in the country. Fresh, vibrant cherries, strawberries, raspberry and potpourri aromas. Elegant and long with an earthy balance of white-pepper spice, amaro, cedar and strawberries.
CLAYMORE BLACKBIRD SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $29.99
Mid-weighted, earthy and very pretty, this wine was a Top 5 with our panel. Aromas of blueberries, cherries and liquorice flow through to deliciously bright and fresh layers of stewed strawberries and rhubarb. Nicely textured and earthy.
TAR & ROSES SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $29
This wine captured everyone's attention. Herbs, charcuterie, sarsaparilla, chinotto and mulberries flow to a ripe, finely textured palate of blackberries, bitter chocolate and plums. Its long, lovely finish made it an easy Top 5 for the panel.
HUNGERFORD HILL CLASSIC SERIES SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $50
Energetic and spicy: a Top 5 performer. The aromatics are sweet with mulberries, potpourri, raspberries and blackcurrants. The palate is medium-bodied with dried fruit layers of sour cherry, mulberries and white pepper. The finish is savoury and classically dry.
COULTER WINES C2 SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $30
Rich, bold and textural, this wine is freshly loaded with dark-toned raspberries, mocha, liquorice and chinotto. Fresh and jubey with plums, blackberry, star anise and mocha, the tannins are fine and powdery with long savoury finish.
FIGHTING GULLY ROAD LA LONGA SANGIOVESE 2019
RRP $70
A great mix of aged and fresh characters. Leather and baked bone aromas flow through layers of sweet and dried fruit; sour cherry, pomegranate and plum. Well structured and lively with fresh and dried raspberries, cranberries and pomegranates. A lovely aged example.
LARK HILL SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $35
Lightly structured with a smooth texture, this wine has bright and pretty aromas of lavender, rose petal, cherries and strawberries. Palate is smooth and taut with amaro cherries and mulberries, spiced with cinnamon, clove and white pepper. The finish is fine and savoury.
CAPITAL THE FOREIGN MINISTER SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $32
Rich yet mid-weighted, this wine has a lovely mix of blueberries, cherries, strawberries and plum flowing across the palate. The acidity is lively, giving the palate a fresh edge. The aromas are spiced with herbs and pepper and the finish is polished and finely textured.
CORIOLE KOUKALAKA SANGIOVESE 2022
RRP $65
The experience of Coriole shows again here. Intensely wound with fine layers of dried fruits and herbs; red and black cherries, thyme, baked raspberries and anise. Aromas are Negroni-like with blood orange and Campari. The finish is slippery and finely textured.
CORIOLE SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $30
A cleverly made wine from Coriole, this Sangio is light in body, but high in complexity. Finely woven aromas of bay leaves, rhubarb, blood orange, mocha and red cherries lead to fine, savoury layers of cherries, plums, black tea, cloves and blackberries. Great length.
FIGHTING GULLY ROAD SANGIOVESE 2023
RRP $35
Deliciously creamy with a mix of silky, sweet, sour and savoury cherries, plums and blackberries. Palate-pleasing with a long, earthy finish. The aromatics too are earthy and ripe with a lovely array of sweet red berries, black and red cherries, cloves, pomegranate and red currants.