Wine
How Tar & Roses is acing alternative varietals
Inspired plantings and assiduous winemaking have seen Tar & Roses and winemaker Narelle King build on the legacy she shared with Don Lewis, and set new benchmarks in Australian wine.
Named for the signature characteristics of Nebbiolo, Central Victorian winery Tar & Roses has been one of the country’s foremost pioneers in alternative varietals since its establishment in 2006. The passion project of Narelle King and Don Lewis, it has its roots in Spain’s Priorat region, where King and Lewis were making wine.
“An old friend of Don’s reached out and asked us if we’d be interested in making Mediterranean varieties in Central Victoria,” King recalls. “Don and his wife Jenny went on to plant their own vineyard in Central Victoria, inspired by the bush vines of Spain – he was always keen to see how he could grow vines in Australia the Spanish way.”
As was King, who was inspired by the opportunity to see what could be done with traditionally Mediterranean varieties grown in Victoria’s soils. Each variety had its specific challenges: King relished the task of keeping Tempranillo’s legendary vigour under control, and of finding the line between tannin extraction and colour with their Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.
Amongst their initial plantings, also, was Pinot Grigio, which has today proven a true Tar & Roses success story – a market leader, defined by its own style, and something of an award-magnet. This year, in fact, marks the 20th vintage for Tar & Roses Pinot Grigio, and the experience shows.
Beloved for its signature blush colour, King reflects on the backstory of the Tar & Roses Pinot Grigio and how it opened new doors both for the winery and Australian white wine lovers.
THE PURSUIT OF PINOT’S PINNACLE
“Initially, just deciding on the style was our first issue,” says King. “We benchmarked a number of wines and decided that our style wasn’t either the traditional Grigio or Gris, but something in between.” Despite its first vintage in 2006, it wasn’t until some six years later that the Grigio really started to take off, along with the rest of the brand.
Around that time consumers were moving away from Sauvignon Blanc and were looking for alternatives. Our Grigio offered something people could enjoy across a wide variety of occasions.
- Narelle King, Winemaker at Tar & Roses
King recalls the ‘captain’s call’ made by Lewis – a Jimmy Watson Trophy Winner who sadly passed away in 2017 – in that dawning era of their Pinot experiments. “In the early days people recognised the wine due to its colour. Don’s call not to strip out the colour was, in hindsight, the best decision we’ve ever made.”
The path to success – for Tar & Roses, but also for Pinot Grigio – wasn’t a straightforward line, says King, but the journey has been its own reward. Recognition has followed: the 2024 vintage Pinot Grigio has just been announced as Halliday’s Pinot Grigio of the Year. Describing the Tar & Roses style, King believes they’ve hit something of a sweet spot.
“Classic peaches and pears interspersed with hints of tropical,” she says. “We like to have a balanced wine with good length and softer acidity than you’d expect in a Grigio, coupled with the characteristic viscosity to add a little palate weight and body.” Lewis’ legacy, then, lives on in each Tar & Roses bottle under King’s practiced hands, across their red and white wine success stories. Truly something to celebrate, we’re sure you’d agree.