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Assessing The Best In McLaren Vale Shiraz

Measuring the bar for this beloved region and variety star. The promise of coastal work-life balance draws wine producers to McLaren Vale, a region framed by Gulf of St Vincent sea-breezes and sun-kissed vineyards.

Shiraz is the widest-planted variety across the region, but bigger isn't always better. The Vale is increasingly known for a diversity of styles and varieties - as Mediterranean reds continue their rise, where does this historic variety sit in the region's current landscape, and its unfolding future?

A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ

The first Shiraz plantings in McLaren Vale likely occurred around 1839-1840, entrenching it in the region's identity from the get-go. Names like Thomas Hardy, John Reynell, Richard Hamilton and Dr. AC Kelly led the way with success as fortified drops from the 1850s to the 1950s before table wines took Shiraz and local brand names to the masses.

The variety weathered the lows (the vine pull of the 1980s) and highs (ongoing inclusion of McLaren Vale fruit in Penfolds Grange) that followed. Yet, as a wise Bob Dylan once said, 'The times they are a-changin,' and much like the diverse crowd of supporters at local Willunga and McLaren Vale footy matches, an exciting smattering of new wave Shiraz producers now sit comfortably alongside traditionalists.

Geographical variation and creativity are crucial to the Vale. One of the region's strengths is the differences in terroir across its 7,400 hectares of vineyards. The Geology of McLaren Vale map, first published in 2010, helps decipher the region's complex geology and its connection to wine flavours.

To delve deeper, the Districts of McLaren Vale Working Group also conducts an annual Districts Tasting in February. The region's winemakers and their palates take part to help deepen the knowledge of how geology, topography, soil, and climate influence what's in the glass. The strict tasting of one-year.old single-vineyard Shiraz is devoted to wines crafted with minimal intervention and no new-oak.

The goal is to capture the purity and reduce winemaking influence. As a result, up to 19 distinctive areas have been identified, some of which are grouped together into a handful of key zones. All vary according to altitude, soil profile, and proximity to the cooling winds drawn off the ocean and Mount Lofty Ranges.

In brief, McLaren Flat's lower altitude and alluvial soils contribute to bold, full-flavoured wines with density and richness (think classic McLaren Vale Shiraz). At Clarendon which borders the Adelaide Hills, complex soils range from red and brown loamy soils to sandy and stony outcrops with occasional ironstone. Blewitt Springs, to the southeast, has an altitude of 150 to 220 metres.

The more even climate is tamed by cooling breezes off the Mount Lofty Ranges and deep sandy soils are said to enhance fragrance and structure. McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism is quick to remind people that this head-spinning diversity exists in an area close to the size of Chianti Classico.

From this rich tapestry emerge diverse wonders. During the 2024 MGA Insurance Group McLaren Vale Wine Show awards, chair of judges Andrew Thomas (Thomas Wines, Hunter Valley), noted a pursuit of excellence across all styles. "The stylistic evolution of winemaking was again on full display," he said. "The cooler, longer growing season of the 2023 vintage has produced some absolutely compelling, tightly structured red wines in this modern regional style that have particularly impressed the judges."

TASTING MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ

Selector's Paul Diamond and Adam Walls, winemakers Duncan Lloyd (Coriole Vineyards and Dune), Lauren Langfield (Lauren Langfield Wines and Land of Tomorrow), Verity Cowley (Orbis Wines), and Shaughn Jenkins (trade engagement officer at McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association), Paddy Gilhooly (proprietor and director of sales at Thistledown Wines) - and yours truly - converged on Coriole Vineyards to taste through a spectrum of 125 wines ranging from 2014 to 2024. Across the board, quality was high, with 'aha' moments delivered through purity, depth of aroma and varietal character.

When approached gently, fruit has the potential to sing with all the gusto and nuance of the local Willunga Gospel Choir. Overripe fruit was occasionally an issue, but the majority of wines delivered brightness of fruit and a seamless line across the palate. Heavy oak dulled seasonal variation and blocked the diversity for which the region should fly the flag.

This strengthens the case for fresh expressions of Shiraz that lend themselves to vibrant food friendly options, many of which can be consumed on release. In a region where conviviality, food and wine go hand.in-hand with the salty air we breathe, light-to-mid-weight wines with complexity and presence are exciting. Balance, as always, is key.

MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ TASTING HIGHLIGHTS

With over 100 wines tasted and 90 of Bronze medal standard and above, making a Top 50 proved an exceptional challenge. Honourable mentions of other top wines at the tasting can be found at the end of these featured tasting notes.

MITOLO G.A.M. SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $65

Top wine of the tasting: opulent, full-bodied and generous. Palate flows with dark chocolate, rhubarb, cherry, black olives and black pepper framed with fine tannins. Beguiling aromas of blood plum, violets, black cherry and sage. Vibrant acidity and fine tannins keep it fresh through to an impressive finish.

HICKINBOTHAM BROOKS ROAD SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $90

A heady and exotic nose of mulberry, cola and sweet spice leads into dense, dark fruit layers. Mocha, dried herbs and anise unfold over punchy acidity and firm, shapely tannins. Powerful and textured, with a long, savoury finish.

JAMES HASELGROVE FUTURES SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $75

Experience shows here: taut palate of dark fruit and crisp acidity with a silky chamois-like tannin trail and a whisper of pencil shavings. Plum, dark cherry and violet leap from the glass. Top 10!

MR. RIGGS WINE CO. J.F.R. 2021 RRP $60

Another Top 10: full-flavoured and structured with nicely integrated oak and balanced tannins. Juicy, dark berry aromatics mingle with hints of spice, earth and leather. A rich, elegant palate leads to a mouth- coating finish with awesome depth and persistence.

BERG HERRING SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $37

Fresh, balanced and vibrant. Palate is mid weighted with juicy strawberries, herbs and ripe acidity. The aromatics burst with red and blackberries soaked in cola, the finish is fine and persistent.

WIRRA WIRRA RSW SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $80

Plush with powerful potential. Opens with anise, plum and Thai basil aromas that flow through to dark strawberries and black plum, earthy chocolate, framed by silky tannins and fine oak spice. Luxe.

LLOYD BROTHERS WESTERN BLOCK 2 RESERVE SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $90

This wine was Top 10 for its deep aromatic poise: violets, plums and mocha mingle and lift. Blackcurrants and boysenberries flow across a dark, chocolate-laced palate with a savoury herbs and spice tail. The texture is plush, the finish dry and complex.

ALPHA CRUCIS CLARENDON SYRAH 2022 RRP $70

Finely structured with freshness and finesse, dark cherry and red liquorice flow into silky tannins and subtle spice, delivering harmony, length and elegance. Crunchy and fresh!

MAXWELL ELLEN STREET SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $50

Concentrated, brooding and complex. Deep aromas of mocha and black cherry. Balanced palate of blackberries, plums and dark chocolate, cedar and spice hints, and fine tannins adding poise and weight.

SAMSON TALL SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $32

Silky, perfumed and complex. Pretty aromas: blueberries, cooking spice and sweet iced coffee. Palate of savoury cherries and black olives intertwined with mocha and pepper. Balanced and stylishly finessed.

SHIRVINGTON WINES ROW X ROW REDWIND 2021 RRP $50

Lifted red berries and blueberry dusted with cinnamon and confection spice. Palate is rounded and smooth, flowing through chalky tannins and subtle oak. Elegant and charming, finishing with fine weight.

CORIOLE SPARTA SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $28

Bright florals and berry fruit, rosemary, cherry, and plum create a fresh, aromatic entry. Palate is seamless, supple, with sweet and savoury blue-black fruit. Silky texture carries a long, elegant finish with gentle spice.

LARNOOK BLEWITT SPRINGS SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $45

Savoury and refined, showing blackberry, seared beef, black tea and peppercorn. Opens to reveal cardamom, liquorice and iodine. Velvety tannins and cooling acidity: poised and precise.

PARALIAN SPRINGS HILL VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2024 RRP $48

Brooding, revealing blue and black fruit with graphite, ironstone and crushed earth. Black pepper and Szechuan spice coil through the core. Deep and streamlined, with commanding structure.

LECONFIELD WW MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $28

Satsuma plum and black olive aromas gently wrapped in roasted coffee oak. Palate flows with rich Shiraz fruit and silky tannins. A soft line of acidity adds succulence and drives a long, elegant finish.

PRICE'S BLOCK 7 SHIRAZ NOUVEAU 2023 RRP $30

Bursting with red berry fruit - raspberry, strawberry and a hint of spice - this youthful Shiraz is lifted by floral tones and black pepper. Vibrant and fresh, the palate glows with lively energy and finishes long with a whisper of violets.

OLIVERS TARANGA SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $30

Lush and full-bodied, this wine leads with aromas of dark chocolate and mocha. Mulberry, Dutch liquorice and cacao dominate the velvety palate. It's a wine with ageing potential, grown from a cherished site nurtured by generations of the Oliver family.

PAXTON WINES JONES BLOCK SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $45

Mulberry, dark chocolate and graphite fill the nose of this plush, purple-rimmed wine. The palate is rich with black fruit, vanilla bean and ironstone. Robust tannins frame the power beautifully, guiding the wine to a dry, structured and satisfying finish.

RICHARD HAMILTON GHOST HILL SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $38

Aromatic and brooding, cinnamon and star anise accent rich plum fruit. The palate is rounded and juicy, layered with spice and framed by structured tannins. Depth and persistence ensure drinking pleasure now and well into the future.

THISTLEDOWN WINES CUNNING PLAN SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $32

Lively and bright with cherry, raspberry and ripe plum aromas. Full- bodied blackberry, sarsaparilla and spice on the palate. Velvety tannins and succulent texture add lift and depth, finishing strong.

PENNY'S HILL YEENUNGA SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $100

Indian spice, plum and tilled earth lead into pine, cedar and boot polish. Brooding palate of dark cherry, persimmon and forest floor. Bright acidity and fine tannins offer lift and balance - classic.

CHAPEL HILL THE VICAR SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $80

Dark plum and blackberry aromas merge with brambly aniseed and cedar spice. Palate is richly balanced, layered with black fruit, mid-palate flesh and firm, slinky tannins. Plush, precise finish.

CORIOLE WILLUNGA 1920 RESERVE SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $110

Soft, waxy lines of black cherries and blackcurrants with a confectionery kick and secondary mulberry and blackberry tangle, continuing to the palate with a suggestion of cooking spice and oak.

IN PRAISE OF SHADOWS SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $30

Lifted sage, blackberry and ferrous spice, roasted coffee and char. Savoury, energetic palate of red cherry and blueberry. Oak and black pepper add definition. Great structure: fine tannins and vibrant acidity.

HITHER & YON LEASK SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $80

Aromas of olive tapenade, iodine and woody herbs. Palate is rich and brooding, with Satsuma plum, black cherry, chocolate and spiced oak. Firm tannins shape a powerful wine with focused length.

OLIVERS TARANGA HJ SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $85

Bright perfume of raspberry, dark chocolate and liquorice. The plush, full-bodied palate is a delightful mix of 5-spice, dark berries, chocolate and Christmas cake. A firm tannin handshake leaves no doubt this is one for lovers of bold, voluptuous wines.

YANGARRA ESTATE IRONHEART SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $125

Aromatic lift of red cherry, raspberry and blackberries with a hint of smokey char. Palate is tightly coiled core of elegant black fruits that unfurls to reveal tilled earth, olives, soy and 5-spice, with a touch of pepper at the finish. A great with to enjoy with food or by itself.

MITOLO ANGELA SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $40

A fragrant blend of herbs, blueberries, bunch spice and dark earth. Palate is powerful and driven, savoury with stalky herbs, juicy and viscous with layered blackberry and rhubarb. Rounded and plush throughout the palate: a wine of poise and presence.

BERG HERRING SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $37

Juicy and vibrant nose with sweet confected notes of cola, blackberry and plum. A full-bodied and dark-fruited wine with hints of chai, rosemary, baking spice and light oak to finish. Rounded with an appealing sweet lick to the lingering finish.

BLEWITT SPRINGS WINE CO RESERVE SHIRAZ 2017 RRP $65

A shy nose reveals soft and nicely integrated violet, red and black fruits, earth and a hint of leather. Soft and textural in a mid-weight style, it delights with a bright and crunchy cherry fruit core and intriguing play between dark fruits and spice. Bright, juicy finish.

MAXWELL MINOTAUR SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $150

Compelling dense cherry, molasses, cinnamon and clove. Ripe black fruit with lifted red cherry, eucalypt and cola in good overall balance, for a classic-style Vale Shiraz with great length.

DUNE WINE BLEWITT SPRINGS SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $23

Bright and delightful blackberry, raspberry and fresh cranberry aromas. Driven by crunchy, ripe red fruit, grippy tannins add balance for an elegant yet complex wine.

J&J WINES EMINENCE SHIRAZ 2018 RRP $59

Lifted primary raspberry and blackberry fruits with notes of dried herb, cola and whole bunch. Palate is nice with bright acidity in a fresher-styled Vale Shiraz. Spicy with sarsaparilla and great bold fruit density, this is a wine with excellent cellaring potential.

KARRAWATTA ACE OF TRUMPS SHIRAZ 2019 RRP $62

Inviting cranberry, plum, pomegranate and cherry aromas open to a fruit- driven palate of blackberries, strawberries and pepper spice with nicely balanced tannins.

RICHARD HAMILTON CENTURION OLD VINE SHIRAZ 2020 RRP $115

Pretty, perfumed red raspberry and cherries with delicate earth and hints of oak. Nicely weighted with an interesting sweet and sour, savoury mix of characters - well crafted.

WIRRA WIRRA CATAPULT ORGANIC SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $28

Bright and lifted cranberry and strawberry nose with floral rose and pink pepper. Palate is bright with crunchy fruit and a lovely acid drive, displaying characters of lavender and all-spice. Supple, clean and pure, this is a beautifully balanced wine and an absolute banger in terms of value.

JUXTAPOSED WAIT VINEYARD 'SANDY CORNER BLOCK' SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $45

Complex aromatics of whole bunch and 5-spice continue to a nuanced palate with hints of fennel. Very modern in style, this is an attractive and compelling wine.

VARNEY WINES SHIRAZ 2023 RRP $35

Olive paste over deeper, ripe berries, currants and stewed quince. Umami.rich palate with a lick of soy and lashings of aniseed and liquorice. Herbaceous and spicy with a lovely, long finish that lingers.

PRICE'S BLOCK 3 SHIRAZ AGED RELEASE 2017 RRP $40

Earthy, autumnal aromas with thistles, soft and silty black fruits and secondary development. Broody lines of blackberry and black cherry with smokey, charry characters.

CHAPEL HILL ROAD BLOCK SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $70

Perfumed with baked black cherry, soft earth and sweet forest floor. Textured, undulating entry of sour red cherry and brooding blackberry that swells across the palate in an intense wine with chunky tannins.

D'ARENBERG BLIND TIGER SHIRAZ 2014 RRP $150

Bright and energetic black and blue fruits with soft, fine earth and spice lift. Lovely and lively entry with fine tannins in a powerful, full-bodied wine that shows what a little age can bring to Vale Shiraz.

ALPHA CRUCIS BLEWITT SPRINGS SYRAH 2022 RRP $40

Distinct and arresting with earthy aromatics. Palate shows nice savoury/sweet balance with cocoa, espresso and spices. Crunchy and intense - an electric expression. Wow.

SHIRVINGTON ROW X ROW MANJALDA SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $50

Lifted, perfumed nose of violets with rosemary. Palate is robust with bold, dark fruits, coffee, spice and well integrated oak and tannins. A broody, dark Shiraz for lovers of the style.

THE HEDONIST SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $26

Subdued dark cherry and blackcurrant aromas reveal a measured, elegant wine in a cooler climate style. Ripe red fruit, cola and graphite, with well balanced oak and chalky tannins. Simple and pure.

BATTLE OF BOSWORTH SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $28

Attractive cherry and blackberry aromas. Palate is ripe and resiny, generous with plush fruit and distinct spice characters. A lovely fruit-driven wine that shows a lot of promise.

BIG EASY RADIO FALSE IDOLS SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $40

Redolent of the Aussie bush, emotive and crunchy. Savoury/sweet, dark fruit characters and umami charm in an oak hammock over a neat tannin stairwell. A panel favourite with presence.

LLOYD BROTHERS ESTATE SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $35

An approachable nose of red berries, gentle oak and rounded spices. Palate is lovely with drying, rounded tannins for a satisfying mouthfeel with nice mix of fruit and spice. Should be a real crowd-pleaser.

OX HARDY SHIRAZ 2022 RRP $30

Mulberry-dominant aromas with hints of soy and waxy lines of black cherry and savoury earth. Round and soft with appealing weight and mouthfeel and a touch of leather. Sweet, savoury, and sublime.

ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP CHOCOLATE FACTORY SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $30

Complex bouquet of raspberry and sour/ savoury red and black fruits. Textural, medium-to-full-bodied, with liquorice, spice and herbs, and an earthy finish. Very shapely.

MINISTRY OF CLOUDS SINGLE VINEYARD BLEWITT SPRINGS SHIRAZ 2021 RRP $65

A Top 10 wine. Glows with a core of pure cherry, raspberry and cranberries sliding across the palate. Aromas of lifted violets, nutmeg and French oak and sandy tannins.