Life All Travel Destinations Entertaining Food All Chefs Recipes Restaurants Wine Matching Wine All Wine 101 Wine News Wine Regions Wine Varietals Home > Selector Magazine > Food > Lyndey Milan’s Hot-smoked salmon and asparagus with seaweed butter recipe Food Lyndey Milan’s Hot-smoked salmon and asparagus with seaweed butter recipe Preparation time 10 mins + 2+ hrs in fridge Cooking time 15 mins Serves 4 We recommend a Chardonnay with the salmon and an example from Margaret River’s Driftwood is ideal. Part of their ‘Collection’ range, the Driftwood Chardonnay has loads of peach and citrus varietal depth and just the right amount of classy oak in support. It’s a vibrant and flavoursome pairing. INGREDIENTS 4 x 180g-200g skinless salmon fillets, pin-boned ¼ cup butter 500g mixed mushrooms, sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 4 green onions (shallots), finely sliced 2 bunches asparagus, ends snapped off Brining mixture 1/3 cup (75g) raw or granulated brown sugar 1/3 cup (40g) sea salt flakes (not fine salt) 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper Zest of half an orange Smoking mixture 2 tbsp lapsang souchong or other black tea leaves (not bags) 3 tbsp jasmine rice 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp coriander seeds, cracked Strips from remaining half orange 3 cinnamon sticks, broken in half Seaweed butter 120g butter, softened 2 tsp seaweed paste METHOD Pat fish dry with kitchen paper. To cure the fish which helps firm the texture and add flavour, mix together all ingredients. Lay out four pieces of plastic wrap. Divide half the brining mixture between the four pieces, lay dry fish on top, sprinkle evenly with remaining cure and wrap up firmly. Let sit for an hour or so, refrigerated if your kitchen is hot, or overnight. Remove from the fridge, rinse off the cure, and pat dry with kitchen paper. Place back in the fridge, uncovered, for a minimum of 1 hour, but preferably longer, up to 4 hours to allow the pellicle to form – after the salt draws out some of the moisture, drying in the fridge the surface forms a sticky, salty layer that keeps the moisture locked in, but also lets in the smoke flavour. Line a wok or large stir-fry pan with two thicknesses of foil. Place smoking mixture on top, mix well and place over high heat. Cover and when it starts to smoke place a greased rack and salmon on top. Ensure there is room for air to circulate, then cover tightly. Wrap foil around the edges if necessary. Smoke for about 6-8 minutes Turn off heat, and leave another 10 minutes for the smoke to infuse. Take wok outside or put underneath exhaust fan to remove lid. Remove salmon and rack with tongs and fold up foil to encase smoking mixture. Put aside to cool before discarding. The salmon may look uncooked but it should be hot, cooked at the edges but pleasantly pink inside. Pop under a hot griller if you want it more cooked and golden. Meanwhile blend the butter and seaweed paste in a processor until smooth. Remove to a sheet of greasproof paper and roll to form a log. Store in the fridge. Melt butter in a large fryingpan over medium high heat, add mushrooms and sauté for 5 minutes or until tender. Add garlic and green onions and cook a minute more. Steam, poach or microwave the asparagus for 2 minutes or until tender crisp. Serve asparagus with salmon, a slice of seaweed butter and mushrooms. Lyndey’s note: Seaweed paste is available in the Japanese section of Asian grocery stores. 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Cart total: xxx 1 case, 12 bottles, 3 accessories Checkout Continue Shopping You might also like Food Baked John Dory with eschalots and braised baby veg Food Lyndey Milan’s Massaman curry of goat Words by Lyndey Milan on 26 Nov 2014 Food Impress: Daniel Puskas Words by Libby Travers on 12 Sep 2018 Over the past six years, Sixpenny, found on a humble street corner in the inner-west suburb of Stanmore, has become one of Sydney’s favourite restaurants, and for good reason. The food, served as a six- or eight-course menu, is exquisite, the wine list a delight and the sunshine that streams in the windows on a Sunday afternoon is entirely ethereal. It is a beautiful place to dine. The fact it’s named after sixpenny restaurants, small diners that populated Australian cities in the gold rush era of the late 1800s, where you could get a ‘square meal’ for just sixpence, speaks volumes about its identity. The title was the perfect middle ground for co-founders and chefs, Daniel Puskas and James Parry; it was not as simple as the fourpenny restaurant, not as fancy (or expensive) as their ‘posh cousins’, the shilling restaurant. Since James’ departure two years ago, Daniel has headed up the kitchen (and run the restaurant) alone. Moulded by many years of experiences and friendships, as most creatives are, he has carved out his own culinary niche. A very successful niche. He was awarded the 2018 Good Food Guide’s Chef of the Year, with the restaurant consistently praised for its modern simplicity. “Over the years I have learnt I want to keep it simple but elegant,” says Daniel of his cooking and plating. “I don’t think it has to look a particular way, it just has to taste delicious. Some people eat with their eyes, but people who really taste the food, will see beyond it.” Life lessons For most successful chefs, it is the time at someone else’s apron strings that creates their style. For Daniel, it was discovering what he didn’t want that taught him valuable lessons. It was an early start in hotel restaurants and function rooms that gave him the impetus to seek out something different, and so, in 2000, he bought a copy of the Good Food Guide, found the best restaurant on the list and applied for a job. The restaurant was Tetsuya’s. At this revered hot bed of Australian talent, Daniel not only worked under the inimitable Tetsuya Wakuda, but also Martin Benn, who was head chef at the time before going off to open the amazing Sepia, Dave Pegrum as sous chef, and a veritable line-up of Australia’s best talents toiling away as chef de parties and apprentices. He had landed well. “There was a great bunch of people in the kitchen and on the floor” recalls Dan. “Tets was always in and out of the kitchen. He brought an energy. ‘Taste, taste, taste’ was his mantra and that’s stuck with me. “But in the end, it was about working in a fine dining restaurant. With so many people you were not doing a magnitude of jobs, rather a large quantity of small jobs.” New world views Like many chefs of his generation, Daniel chose London to expand his culinary horizons. However, the combination of long hours and long drinking sessions, curtailed any real creative stimulation. Rather, it was time spent in Spain, Italy and Jerusalem that gave Dan food awakening moments. Living in Jerusalem for five months was a change of pace. He started to learn Hebrew and would practise while bartering in the souk and buying his groceries for dinner. Making his way back to Sydney, he found himself in another highly acclaimed kitchen, Marque. While learning from another incredible line up of chefs, he also mastered how to cook in a tiny kitchen, work in a smaller team and multi-task. While at Marque, he won the prestigious Josephine Pignolet Award, which provides one young chef each year the financial support to travel. Daniel took off again. This time to America, and into the kitchens of cutting-edge restaurants WD50 and Alinea. Again, an awakening. “I learnt a lot of how I didn’t want to cook,” says Dan of his journey. “I thought I needed to learn all the modern techniques. In fact, it taught me that I didn’t want too much of that in my kitchen.” An Australian identity Back home, Daniel teamed up with James Parry for the first time at Oscillate Wildly in the Sydney suburb of Newtown. It was another growth moment. “James’s training had been at Bird Cow Fish and Billy Kwong. He had a very different approach to cooking,” says Dan. “He had the skills to make food delicious, where I was trained on how to work in a kitchen. I started to feel I had so much more to learn, again. But I think he found that balance in me, too. So we decided to create something together and Sixpenny was born.” With this delightful suburban restaurant, Dan has carved out his own identity in the heart of Australia’s culinary landscape. It is somewhat to be expected, given his stunning pedigree. Although he calmly tempers that fact. “It’s about relationships, the people, not the resume,” he says. “We’re only a small restaurant, but we all have big dreams.” A bit like those folk who ate at the original sixpennys all those years ago.